Memorizing jazz in Dunedin

Dunedin—Thursday night at the Robert Burns Pub. Known by locals as “The Robbie,” it was established in 1859, and is the oldest pub still operating in the city. The Calder Prescott Jazz Quartet, just inside the door, draws a crowd with trumpet, bass, piano and drums. I lap up the dark syrup of my Guinness, downing a pint easy, then another.